Runway Reviews: Fall 2012 Menswear

In terms of menswear, this season was intense. Designers like Gaultier and 3.1 Phillip Lim were cool and industrial, while Jeremy Scott brought a fantastical dress up box of club kid meets digital enthusiast. Alexander McQueen brought back breeches (win!) and Band of Outsiders made me want to gallop through the desert on a pony before arriving for my dinner date with the gay Indiana Jones of my dreams. Ride on!

Phillip Lim:

While 3.1 Phillip Lim may have fell a bit under the radar for womenswear, he produced a menswear collection of impressively audacious, bulky and super-sharp lined goodness. The highlights were pastel translucent turtlenecks and coats, one-armed sweaters, and pixellated patches ideal for a 90’s sci-fi video game protagonist. I’m absolutely in love with the leather accents on the collars and sleeves, and if someone doesn’t give me the grape-colored peacoat with the rusty sunset toned vest, I may die.

Jean Paul Gaultier:

Gaultier’s collection started off on a somewhat questionable note. Red and grey brick prints were plastered all over the pants and jackets, and the layering was balancing on the tightrope between cool and Lincoln Center tourist (a hard look to pull off seriously). As expected, there were plenty of gender-bending cuts, like a trench coat cape and long woolen skirts. However, as the collection revealed more, the blend of gentleman and industrial street king was executed perfectly with bold yellows complimenting rich, rusted neutrals; masculine bulk; and excellently tailored suits. It’s like Gaultier just created a fantastic world where all the boys dressed like they were ready to go walk the dog/fight an industrial war of the apocalypse. *swoon*

Jeremy Scott:

Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy! Scott let’s it all come out in this emoticon littered, pop culture based collection. It was by far my favorite out of all of the menswear I saw this year. Scott executed a flamboyant collection of provocative plastics and candy-hued, tight, shiny pants. I could honestly live in this collection. It’s charming, loud, and wildly childish, with definite potential for wearability.

Alexander McQueen:

McQueen was a bit tentative in terms of color this time around, but his princely breeches integrated into classic, tailored suits made for a very elegant collection. Highlights included a shadowy deep red and blue plaid velvet suit, an oversized woolen knitted coat with black patent leather trousers, and an incredible shades-of-gray ensemble complete with turtleneck, breeches and silvery suede shoes. It’s all very Oliver Twist if he were born rich, and I couldn’t be happier. May I have some more?

Band of Outsiders:

Band of Outsiders was fabulous mix of western, desert, and cool soho kid. Floppy suede hats and tough silhouettes were complemented by adorable bright scarves and sweaters speckled with alpacas. The collection was simple in its tailoring and shape, which definitely helped with the wearability factor, while the patterns and accessories were wild and friendly. Band of Outsiders struck the perfect balance of play and tough-guy. Get your alpaca scarves, bros, they’re really nifty and will make me like you more.

James Neiley (Fashion Editor) is a senior and enjoys lounge kimonos, vintage fur, and large bathtubs. He studies fashion history and french, but particularly revels in excellent cinema costume design.

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