While most of us on campus were sleeping or filing into our first class of the day, Manhattan was buzzing like a trendy beehive with the madness of Fashion Week. If you’re anything like I am, you may have been glued to your computer screen, refreshing the browser every ten minutes for the latest coverage while your sociology reading sat untouched on your desk. But in case you missed it, here are my highlights for the day.
Nicholas K. kicked it all off with a 9 a.m. show. The models strutted out in looks reminiscent of those seen around campus during registration week. I commend the designer for taking a page from the Sarah Lawrence stylebook and piling on oversized layers for that beloved “I-pulled-this-out-of-a-dumpster-but-it’s-fabulous” vibe. Draped jersey dresses with uneven hems, slick jackets, fringed sweaters, and shredded fabrics made up the bulk of the collection, which included menswear. Gauzy tie-dye prints and an understated color palette rounded things out with an air of irreverent cool.
BCBG Max Azria delivered an impressive array of flirty dresses rife with up-to-the-minute details: geometric color blocking, wispy pleated silk, and shoulder bearing silhouettes. Innovative, warm-weather-worthy riffs on this fall’s tribal print trend traipsed down the runway, breathing new life into the brand’s signature party dresses. The pieces were arty and whimsical. For Spring 2012, nothing beats a mini dress with a scarf print or a voluminous pleated maxi skirt in moody blue and black.
You might have enjoyed a late Saturday morning and an even later start to Sunday, but the fashion world didn’t have time to catch a breath this weekend. An endless parade of big name labels appeared at the New York runways on Friday, but only a few collections really stood out. One of these belonged to up-and-coming brand Suno, which showcased an impressive array of dresses, blouses, and trousers in vibrant prints. The colors started out subdued in cream and black stripes, polka dots, and abstract flowers on knee-length skirts and slick tunics or lace-trimmed pieces reminiscent of vintage doilies. The highlights were dresses in bold colors with abstract prints. My favorite dress featured a halter neckline and was constructed out of watery blue silk and decorated with Impressionist orange flowers.
If designer Doo.Ri was a Sarah Lawrence student, you know she’d find a way to do a conference project all about the art of drapery. This master of jersey delivered another magnificent collection full of swishy dresses and sculpted separates. Pitch-perfect pleating was spiced up with uneven hemlines. Some of her best pieces were the most surprising: a camel leather sleeveless vest, a black jumpsuit (the spring answer to this fall’s pajamas-for-day trend), a grey suit jacket with a swath of black fringe cutting diagonally across the front placket. Traditionalist will be pleased with the designer’s figure-flattering dresses in juicy spring colors or geometric florals; loose trousers; gathered skirts; and razor-sharp button-downs.
ADAM might be a quintessentially masculine name, but the label’s Spring 2012 collection is full of refreshing femininity. The show opened with blush colored separates, a girlish spin on a classic suit featuring a sheer button-down and loose-fitting satin pants. This is an unrestrained interpretation of suiting. A cap sleeved, heather grey tunic and black and white sunflower print trousers made a striking pair. Mixed prints and drop-waist silhouettes were other successful notions that echoed throughout the collection, lending a vibe of cheeky irreverence. The final string of dresses; including a white pouf of tulle beneath a red military topper, an embroidered shift, and a floral piece with long sheer sleeves; were especially remarkable, worthy of a romantic evening stroll (or a dreamy late night coffee run during conference week).
Erin Fetherston not only stole my name but also my impeccable taste. Kidding—mostly. But I’m a big enough person to commend her for her confectionary collection of impeccable little dresses. The presentation featured a Twiggy-esque model (peroxide pixie cut and all) displaying a series of Mod-era mini dresses and slim jacket-and-trouser sets. Though the throwback was obvious, Fetherston’s pieces were decidedly modern. There was a clean, bare-bones effect to her designs this season, even with details like ruffles or lace. Simple silhouettes set a perfect backdrop for abstract flowers, butterflies, and color blocking. Ride the girlish wave toward flirtatious sophistication this spring!
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